Beneath the Surface: The Troglodyte Caves of Belvès

Just below the market hall, tucked into the rock beneath the heart of the village, lies one of Belvès’ most extraordinary and unexpected treasures: a set of ancient troglodyte caves. These semi-subterranean dwellings, carved directly into the cliffside, whisper stories of survival, simplicity, and the rhythm of daily life in medieval times.

A Village Beneath the Village

From the moment you step through the discreet entrance near the main square, you’re drawn into another world — darker, quieter, and steeped in mystery. These caves weren’t just used for storage or livestock; people actually lived here. Entire families made their homes within these hollowed-out rooms during the 13th to 15th centuries, often during periods of war, unrest, or economic hardship.

Life underground wasn’t necessarily by choice — it was born of necessity. While the more fortunate townsfolk lived above ground, those with fewer means found shelter in the sandstone. The caves offered safety, constant temperature, and a sense of protection in uncertain times. With stone walls, soot-stained hearths, and the marks of chisels still visible in the rock, the rooms are surprisingly well-preserved — and hauntingly human.

“When I walked in, I could almost hear the echoes of footsteps and the quiet breath of those who once called this place home.”

A Walk Through Time

The troglodyte site is now open to visitors and has been sensitively arranged to guide you through this underground world. The tour includes:

Living quarters: Small rooms with sleeping niches carved into the walls

A communal kitchen: With soot-stained ceilings still black from centuries of fires

An old forge: Indicating that tradespeople worked here, not just lived here

Storage areas: Cool and dark, perfect for keeping grain, meat, or wine

Secret passageways: Some say these led to lookout points or escape routes

The caves are not just a curiosity — they are a testament to the adaptability and resilience of the people of Belvès. And remarkably, they remained hidden to most of the modern world until excavations began in the 20th century.

“It’s a part of Belvès you’d never expect. The square above feels so lively, but just beneath it lies this powerful reminder of how tough life once was.”

The Human Side of History

What makes the Belvès troglodyte caves so unique isn’t just the preservation of the space, but the intimacy of it. This isn’t a grand château or a sweeping battlefield. It’s a collection of small, humble spaces that people actually lived in. You can see where meals were cooked, where children might have slept, where tools were stored. It’s a place of quiet history, told through stone.

And although they were basic, these dwellings were cleverly designed. Rainwater was collected, airflow was managed to avoid smoke buildup, and alcoves were used efficiently. You get a sense of how much thought went into making life underground workable — and even, in some ways, comfortable.

Rediscovery and Restoration

For many years, the caves sat largely forgotten beneath the market square. Locals had heard stories of the underground dwellings, but it wasn’t until archaeological interest picked up in the 1970s that they were properly explored and documented. Since then, conservation teams have worked to protect the site while allowing visitors to experience it first-hand.

What’s striking is how seamlessly the caves now fit into the village experience. One minute you’re enjoying a coffee under the old timbered market hall; the next, you’re descending into the sandstone to walk through centuries of silent history.

Practical Info

Open Seasonally: The caves are open from spring to early autumn, with guided tours in French and English.

Cool Inside: Bring a light jumper — even in July, the caves keep their chill.

Accessibility: Due to narrow passageways and uneven stone floors, the caves may not be suitable for all visitors.

Tours: Guided visits run several times daily during peak season. Booking ahead is advised in July and August.

Tickets available from the Belves Tourist Information Office.

Worth the Descent

Belvès is known for its beautiful views, its perched bastide walls, and its welcoming squares — but for many visitors, the memory that lingers longest is the one beneath their feet.

The troglodyte caves remind us that beauty isn't always polished, and history isn’t always grand. Sometimes, it's carved into stone, warmed by firelight, and handed down through silence.